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Exploring Jeju Island: A 5-Day Dog-Friendly Adventure Itinerary

by John Buckley
April 10, 2024

Welcome to an exciting 5-day adventure to dog-friendly Jeju Island, South Korea, that is perfect for couples and their furry friends.


For this trip, I packed up the family wagon, Clark Griswold-style, with the wife and dog. We traveled from mainland South Korea to Jeju Island via ferry. Spoiler: the dog survives in this version.

Though all of the activities listed are possible with or without a car, having the freedom to travel by car is ideal.

Dogs, of course, are optional.

Colorado Saram and dog (Winnie) at Conan Beach, Jeju Island - Korea.
Colorado Saram and dog (Winnie) at Conan Beach, Jeju Island, Korea

Overview

Long ago, when I was a fresh-off-the-boat English teacher in Daegu, South Korea, a co-worker once told me that I absolutely had to visit Jeju Island, the “Hawaii of South Korea.”

Hawaii, you say? I’m listening…

I’m really not sure why it took me so long to get there. After 15 years of subsequently living and working in South Korea, I finally made it there to see for myself.

The short answer is ‘no’.

Jeju Island is actually very similar to mainland Korea, albeit with some palm trees and a cool island vibe.

However, if you go in expecting Waikiki Beach or the Na Pali Coast, you’ll be disappointed.

To be fair, I think the Hawaii comparison is just something that well-meaning Koreans use as an easy reference point for foreigners. I don’t believe it’s an actual marketing strategy.

Perhaps it’s akin to me describing Denver as “the New York City of Colorado.” It’s not nearly accurate or fair, but it’s something they might understand.

Though the Hawaii bar is undoubtedly set too high, Jeju Island did exceed my tempered expectations. Enough so that we’re already making plans to load up the family roadster for a return visit!

Where in the world is Jeju Island?

Jeju Island is located off the southern tip of South Korea in the Korea Straight. This passes between the East China Sea and the Sea of Japan. With an area of approximately 714 square miles, Jeju Island is roughly the size of Oahu, Hawaii.

Google Maps is wonky on this site, so here's an image

Getting There and Away: by Ferry

For a complete guide on how to travel by ferry, read my Ferry Travel to Jeju Island, South Korea: A Complete Guide.


If traveling from mainland South Korea, one of the best ways to get to Jeju Island is via ferry.

Aside from being more scenic and leisurely than flying, ferry travel offers several benefits that may appeal to you.

These were the reasons behind our decision to travel by ferry:

  • I live in Korea and own a car. By taking the ferry, we could eliminate the need to rent a car.
  • I wanted the familiarity of driving my own car and the flexibility of driving vs. public transportation.
  • We wanted to bring our border collie (Winnie). This would also save us money on dog boarding at home and give her a much-needed vacation from her stressful life.
  • The round-trip for two people, including the dog and a car, was roughly $400. This would be much cheaper than flights, car rentals, and dog boarding fees.
  • It added to the adventure!

Getting There and Away: by Air

The easiest way to get to Jeju Island is to fly. Jeju International Airport (CJU) is conveniently located just one mile west of Jeju City Center.

There are direct flights from most major Korean cities. There are also flights from China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, Thailand, the Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam.

If you arrive by air, I highly recommend you rent a car. Unlike most major Korean cities, having a car is hugely beneficial, and you won’t be constrained by public transportation.

For more information on how to rent a car and drive on Jeju Island, read my Drive in South Korea: A Complete Foreigner’s Guide.

Though Jeju Island may not be Hawaii, it is a tropical paradise, and Koreans flock there in droves.

As such, make sure to secure a reservation early, or you may find yourself checking the local bus timetables.

Keep in mind that, unlike most Korean cities, Jeju Island does not have a subway system. However, just like on mainland Korea, public buses are safe, efficient, and cheap.

They’re just not the most convenient way to enjoy your vacation.

An alternative to self-driving the island or standing at bus stops would be to hire a Jeju Taxi Guide.

Taking a Dog on a Flight to Jeju

Update: A year after writing this, we returned to Jeju Island, but this time we were under tighter time constraints. We still wanted to bring Winnie, so we flew with her from Daegu.

The flight was much faster, and although Winnie handled it like a champ, I couldn’t help but worry about her comfort and mental state the entire time.

I may write a more detailed post about flying with a dog in the future. For now, though, if you have the time, I still recommend taking the ferry.

A Border Collie dog is safely secured inside a crate at an airport check-in counter, ready for a flight to Jeju Island.
Winnie, not too thrilled, but ready for takeoff at Daegu Airport check-in.
A person is holding a dog in their arms, standing in front of a popular photo spot sign that says "Hello Jeju" in the arrivals area of Jeju Airport.
Arriving in Jeju with Winnie, ready for adventure!

Jeju Island Self-Driving Tips

Driving on Jeju Island is pretty straightforward, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Beware of school zones. For a relatively small island, there are a lot of schools! The speed limit in Korea in a school zone is 30 km/hr (roughly 18 mph), and nearly all of them have speed cameras set up overhead.
  • Speed limits frequently change arbitrarily on roads, so keep your eyes out for signs (in Korea, they often paint the speed limit on the road as well).
  • High-traffic tourist areas are sometimes narrow, allowing only one car to pass at a time on a two-way street. This is actually fairly common in Korea, and patience is a virtue in these areas.
  • Jeju Island is bigger than you may think. It may look like a small dot on a map, but it can take some time to get from point A to point B.

Hotel Locations

From budget-friendly backpackers and quaint pensions to eco-retreats and lavish hotels, Jeju has something for everyone.

When booking accommodations in Asia, I often use and compare between Agoda and Booking.com. While they typically list the same properties, they have distinct sets of reviews and sometimes different prices.

Both platforms usually provide free cancellation (though not for every listing), so I like to book one with free cancellation as a placeholder while continuing my search.

Jeju Island Geography

Jeju Island is oval in shape, and at approximately 1,846 square kilometers, it’s bigger than you may think. Hallasan Mountain (Korea’s tallest peak) rises from the center of the island at 1,950 meters (6,400 feet) above sea level.

Mount Hallasan essentially divides Jeju into two main regions:

The northern part of the island is known for its lush, rolling hills, picturesque villages, and unique geological formations. The northern coastline features dramatic cliffs, rugged rocks, and beautiful beaches.

Accommodation options in the north begin in Jeju City and extend to numerous smaller towns.

Jeju City (제주시)

The capital of Jeju Island, Jeju City, is located in the northern part of the island. It’s a bustling urban center offering a wide range of accommodations, from budget hostels to upscale hotels.

It is your likely arrival point at either Jeju International Airport or the Jeju Ferry Passenger Terminal.

Travelers can explore local markets, visit historical sites, and enjoy the city’s vibrant nightlife.

Aewol (애월)

A charming coastal town in the north is known for its scenic coastal views, famous cafés, and fresh seafood restaurants. Numerous hotels and guesthouses provide a more relaxed and scenic seaside atmosphere than Jeju City.

Gujwa (구좌)

This northeastern region is known for its natural beauty and its proximity to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak and the Manjanggul Lava Tube. The area features nice guesthouses and small inns.

Songdang (송당)

*Recommended*

Songdang is situated inland and is known for its rural and forested landscapes. There’s not a lot of action to be found, so don’t come here looking for a party scene.

We chose Songdang for it’s seclusion and an AirBnB that was modern, yet it provided our dog with a huge open yard to roam about in.

Without personal incentive, I would happily recommend this AirBnB. It’s perfect for those looking for a pristine and modern stay in a quiet location. The host spent 15 years living in Seattle and speaks great English.

He was born on the property and spent years remodeling it in his retirement.

The southern region is known for its pristine sandy beaches, lush forests, and milder climate. The area is rich in cultural heritage, with historical sites, temples, and museums.

Seogwipo City, the second-largest city on the island, serves as the main urban center in this region.

Jungmun Tourist Complex

(중문관광단지)

One of the primary tourist centers in the south, this complex is a luxurious destination in itself. It’s home to high-end resorts, golf courses, and the Teddy Bear Museum. Travelers who prefer a lavish stay and easy access to beautiful beaches often choose accommodations here.

Pyoseon (표선)

Pyoseon is known for its beautiful sandy beaches, traditional thatched-roof houses, and tranquil atmosphere. It is a great place to experience the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty.

Travelers can find a range of accommodation options here, including guesthouses, traditional Hanok stays, and modern resorts. The area offers access to pristine beaches, historic sites, and local cultural experiences.

Seogwipo City (서귀포시)

*Recommended*

Located smack dab in the middle of the southern coast of the island, Seogwipo City is Jeju’s second-largest city center. Though urban, it’s known for its coastal beauty and proximity to many natural attractions, both on the coast and inland.

Similar to our stay in Songdang to the north, we chose an AirBnb that was dog-friendly and featured a nice, fenced-in yard.

This host did not speak English, but she was lovely and very accommodating. The house wasn’t as modern as our first stay, but the location is great. We were very pleased with our stay.

Again, at no benefit to me, I can highly recommend:

We ultimately chose AirBnB for the flexibility it gave us with our high-maintenance pooch. However, there are no shortages of accommodations on the island (both dog-friendly and otherwise).

In addition to some great AirBnB’s on the island, Jeju has accommodation options matching all budgets and travel styles.

As previously noted, you can surely find what’s best for you using either Agoda or Booking.com. Use both to shop around and compare deals.

Without further ado:

Our 5-Day, Dog-Friendly, Jeju Island Road Trip Itinerary

Quick View

1: Arrival: Panpo Port; Aewol Cafe Street and Sea Kayaking; Hamdeok Beach; Songdang (accommodation)

2: The Secret Forest; Seongsan Ilchulbong UNESCO Site; Woljeongri Beach

3: Snoopy Garden; Stand-Up Paddle (SUP) Boarding; Seogwipo (accommodation)

4: Keun-Ong Coast Scenic Area; Sinpung Sincheon Seaside Ranch; Seongeup Folk Village; Conan Beach; Kim Nyeong Port

5: Cape Seopjikoji Walk and Horse Ride, Batti Cafe—depart by sea or air

Jeju Island Itinerary Highlights (Video)

Our 2023 Jeju Island Highlights

~Day 1~

2877-3, Panpo-ri / 한경면 판포리 2877-3

We arrived on Jeju Island very early in the morning. Therefore, truth be told, we really just came here to kill some time.

This calm and protected area is an ideal place to swim and snorkel in the sea.

We weren’t prepared to take a dip, but if I hadn’t had to drive around wet, it looked lovely!

Panpo Port has a calm, open sea swimming area on Jeju Island.

Note: There aren’t many nice places to set up camp outside of the water. You can find better places if you’re just looking. to catch rays.

There are a few shelters, but don’t expect lounge chairs and parasols.

Come for a nice swim or snorkel. Do your lounging at one of the nice beaches listed further in the itinerary.

Aewol Café Street

(애월읍카페거리)

25 Aewollo 1(il)-gil, Aewol-eup / 애월읍 애월로1길 25

One place on Jeju Island that comes close to living up to the Hawaii comparison is Aewol.

It boasts beautiful views of a stunning turquoise bay, quaint cafés, touristy shops, and seaside restaurants.

Be advised that if you’re driving, it’s best to arrive early as the narrow entry road and parking get chaotic. We parked in a café parking lot and paid a few bucks to do so.

Though there is certainly no shortage to choose from, we settled into the Bomnal Café. It is popular among Koreans as a filming location for a number of K-dramas, including Warm and Cozy. I can attest that it was certainly warm and cozy.

We chose it for it’s amazing views and the fact that it had a large patio that was dog-friendly. It was a great “welcome to Jeju” scene.

Check them out on Instagram.


Glass Bottom Sea Kayaking at Aewol

The best moment of Day 1 came when we set out on the clear, blue waters with our beloved Pirate Winnie.

The price is 15,000 won ($11) per person and 10,000 won ($7.50) for children under 11 years old. Dogs ride for free.

The rental is for 30 minutes. That’s plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and get your best social media shots. Life jackets are provided, though there isn’t any instruction.

You can book ahead using Naver (you might need Korean for that). However, I think you’re safe to just show up and wait for one to become available.

The rental booth is at the funnel point for all of the tourist traffic on the street. You can’t miss it.

519-10, Johamhaean-ro / 조함해안로 519-10

Many people would rate Hamdeok Beach as one of the top, if not the top, beach on Jeju Island. And rightfully so.

However, sometimes an attraction catches you at the wrong time and mood. Visiting Hamdeok at the end of a long, hot travel day, I have other Jeju beaches ranked higher.

Though it wasn’t my favorite, I would still consider it a must-see.

Drawbacks:
  • Hamdeok Beach isn’t particularly dog-friendly. I know this isn’t a deal-breaker for everyone, but the title of this post has “pet-friendly” in it, so I’ll stick to that. Dogs are welcome in the upper grassy area, but they’re not allowed on the sand. Fair enough, I realize not everyone wants dogs running around during their sunbathing sessions.
  • Hamdeok was by far the most crowded beach that we visited. Traffic and parking were a bit of a headache.
  • Like many beaches in Korea, swimming or enjoying the sea is confined to penned areas that congregate all of the people into “play areas”.
  • The large, grassy area puts some distance between the beaches and the business areas. Good and bad, depending on your point of view.
Positives:
  • It is actually a set of three interconnected beach areas, so there is plenty of space, even though it really does attract a lot of visitors.
  • The aforementioned upper grassy area is perfect for getting away from the sand, having a picnic, or getting out of the sun under the shade of a tree or veranda.
  • The beaches are clean, and the sea is calm, clear, and a stunning azure hue.
  • The surrounding area is lined with cafes, restaurants, and lodging options.
  • Hamdeok Beach is clearly a Jeju Island staple for a reason, especially if you’re looking for a busy beach holiday atmosphere.
Hamdeok Beach has wide swaths of white sand beach and calm swimming waters.
Hamdeok Beach has wide swaths of white sand and calm swimming waters.

~Day 2~

2173, Songdang-ri / 송당리 2173

Nestled in the heart of Jeju Island, the Secret Forest is a serene haven of ancient trees and tranquil walking paths.

A nice photo spot at the entrance to the Secret Forest, Jeju Island.

It offers a peaceful escape from the bustling tourist centers and a glimpse into the island’s rural, natural beauty.

That is a fancy way of saying that the Secret Forest is a must-stop on Jeju Island’s social media photo-op circuit. It doesn’t disappoint!

Be advised: ticks are a problem in Korea. Make sure to wear bug spray with tick protection (if available). Our AirBnB provided some.

If you feel something crawling on your skin, check it out! I found one on my leg while I was in the parking lot.

284-12, Ilchul-ro, Seogwipo-si / 서귀포시 성산읍 일출로 284-12

Seongsan Ilchulbong, also known as “Sunrise Peak,” is a stunning natural volcanic crater that rises up from the sea.

If you want to take full advantage of it’s grandeur, you’ll need better planning than this crew.

Well-maintained trails lead to the top, and many visitors choose to arrive early to take in the stunning sunrise views. Hence the moniker: Sunrise Peak.

However, we showed up midday on a hot August afternoon with a dog in tote.

Even if dog’s were allowed on the trail (they’re not), it was far too hot to contemplate a hike.

We did get the requisite photos and bought some cool “hallabong orange” hats!

Seongsan Ilchulbong UNESCO site - Jeju Island, Korea.

480-1, Haemajihaean-ro / 해맞이해안로 480-1

When I reviewed Hamdeok Beach, I mentioned that I had other beaches rated higher from a personal perspective.

Woljeongri Beach is at the top of my list. However, like Hamdeok, perhaps my opinion was just shaped by the vibes that day.

Whatever the case, this is where the vibes took me:

  • Due to the shallow, sandy-bottom waters, the sea has that Jeju-perfect, light-blue hue.
  • Speaking of shallow, sandy-bottom waters, Woljeongri is a really chill place to enjoy a swim in the sea. You can safely get a good distance out and keep your feet on the sandy ground.
  • Unlike Hamdeok Beach, swimmers were not confined to “playpens,” and there just seemed to be a lot fewer rules in general.
  • Speaking of rules, Woljeongri was much more dog-friendly. I assume that as long as care is taken to avoid annoying others, dogs are welcome on the sand. No one seemed to mind us anyway.
  • I’ll review a stand-up paddle (SUP) lesson for my wife in another area on Day 3, but Woljeongri also rents SUP boards. The soft sandy bottom lends itself well to beginners.
  • There are also surf boards and instructors available for rent, and there are adequate waves for beginner and intermediate surfers to hang ten.
  • A lovely strip of cafes, restaurants, and hotels was just across a single road, with easy crossings. The area gave off a “beach town” vibe that is not common in South Korea.
  • Parking was free just on the other side of that road.
  • Finally, changing and showering facilities were conveniently located at the road crossing. This includes a large foot-washing station.

~Day 3~

930 Geumbaekjo-ro / 구좌읍 금백조로 930

Inspired by my time in the Secret Forest, I have a secret to let out. From the age of about one to twelve, I was obsessed with all things Snoopy.

During those years, I had numerous stuffed Snoopy toys with various Snoopy outfits. Shout out, Flying Ace Snoopy!

As such, when my wife put Jeju’s Snoopy Garden on my radar, this gruff 40-something attempted to mask his excitement.

Welcome to Snoopy Garden! Jeju Island, South Korea
Welcome to Snoopy Garden! Jeju Island, South Korea

Covering roughly 20 acres of well-manicured land, a sprawling network of trails meanders through 11 different Peanuts-themed gardens.

Each garden offers a different opportunity to take a picture with your favorite Peanuts character or theme from the cartoon.

If you’re bringing your own Snoopy along, Snoopy Garden is dog-friendly, but only on Wednesdays. Apparently, Lucy still sets the rules.

We had read something about needing a muzzle due to a past incident, but this turned out to be false. Still, leashes are required for the outdoor gardens, and a dogstroller is needed to venture inside.

Because our Winnie is not really “stroller material”, we did not experience the indoor Garden House. It is filled with additional Peanuts memorabilia.

Adults: 18,000 KRW ($13)

Children (14–18): 15,000 KRW ($11)

Children (3-13): 12,000 KRW ($9)

Dogs and children under 3: Free

Website: https://www.snoopygarden.com/ No English section—good grief!


Border Collie stand up paddle in Jeju Island, South Korea.

When my athletically challenged wife presented me with the notion that she wanted to take a stand-up paddle board (SUP) lesson with our dog, I was dubious.

After all, I had tried it once before on my own in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. Let’s just say it was a humbling experience.

However, she persisted and proceeded to book a lesson with Ten Times in Seogundo.

To my surprise, the Ten Times instructor had her standing upright and paddling around the bay within 30 minutes. She also had our swimming-averse border collie looking like Laird Hamilton!

Information on Ten Times may be a little difficult to find in English. It may also be easier to just rent a SUP right on Woljeongri Beach.

Woljeongri is a lot sandier, though the waves are bigger, so it is probably not dog-friendly.

Though it was a bit of a drive to Seogundo, we were really pleased with the beautiful, isolated location (albeit rocky, not sandy).

Additionally, the results of the instruction from the lovely, female Ten Times instructor speak for themselves.

Ten Times Seogundo: Instagram

~Day 4~

522-17, Taewi-ro, Seogwipo-si / 서귀포시 남원읍 태위로 522-17

Dog-Friendly Travel
Winnie the border collie looks out over the sea on Jeju Island, South Korea.

The Keuneong Coastal Walk is nothing to really shape an itinerary around. However, as the name implies, it is a very scenic coastal trail that is lovely for a morning walk.

There is a 2-kilometer walking trail that traverses high cliffs above the sea. The trail is easy to walk and just requires comfortable footwear. There is a public bathroom along the trail.

It is a worthy stop if you are staying in the Seogwipo part of the island.

You can get some outstanding coastal photos with minimal effort.

5417, Iljudong-ro, Seogwipo-si / 서귀포시 성산읍 일주동로 5417

Panoramic view of the Sincheon Seaside Ranch on Jeju Island.

Sinpung Sincheon Seaside Ranch is a true dog-friendly hidden gem on Jeju Island.

How to get there:

If you have a car, the above-listed address plugged into the navigation system should get you there. Barring that, this place is quite off-the-beaten-path, so it might be tough.

I don’t recommend a taxi unless you can make a deal to have the driver wait. This is quite literally at the end of a lonely road.

If you haven’t figured it out by now, my Korean wife planned many of the activities on this trip.

When she told me about Sincheon Seaside Ranch, I envisioned a tourist trap with pony rides, cotton candy, and screaming children.

To my surprise, the car navigation ended at the sea, right next to a cattle ranch. Between the ranch and the sea was a swath of grass and some heavenly views.

Sincheon Coastal Ranch - This was way off the beaten path, but definitely a highlight.

The Walk:

The walking distance is short, but if you’re like us, allow for around a 2-hour roundtrip. You will want time to take pictures of the landscape, friendly cows, and the beautiful coastline.

There is one café on one end of the walk, but not much else; plan accordingly. We just parked on the side of the road, as did the few other tourists we came across.

This was definitely a highlight of the trip for us. Downside: It spoiled our border collie to expect much more elaborate daily walks in the future!

If you’d like to catch a glimpse of the island’s cultural heritage, the Seongeup Folk Village is an interesting stop.

History buffs and casual fans of Korean culture alike will appreciate a stroll through this well-kept historical village.

The village showcases traditional thatched-roof houses, stone walls, and vibrant gardens. It offers visitors an immersive experience of Korea’s rural history and customs.

We visited at what seemed to be a lull in the tour bus action, so there was not a lot of activity going on at the time of our visit. I was thrilled about that.

However, it is a popular stopover for many Korean and Chinese tours buses, so you might find a more bustling scene.

If you have eating the famous Jeju Island “black pig” pork(흑돼지) on your eating to-do list (and you should), we saw numerous quaint, traditional restaurants that had it on the menu in the village.

Most of them were closed at the time of our visit, but fear not, restaurants all over the island specialize in the delicious Jeju Island specialty.

575-6 Haengwon-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do

If you’ve been following along looking for dog-friendly activities on Jeju Island, Conan Beach (officially named Haengwan Beach) was my favorite of the three beaches listed on this itinerary.

This may be because our border collie Winnie requires a bit of space to roam and has a quirky personality.

Though cute and friendly, she’s a bit anti-social and gets spooked by crowds. Conan Beach was the perfect spot for her to explore and frolic to her heart’s content.

Go a bit off-the-beaten beach path

It is not an official public beach, so it is lacking showering facilities and businesses catering to tourists. If memory serves, I believe there was even a fish cannery nearby.

However, we didn’t come for the glamour. We loved Conan Beach for the wide swath of empty sand that has a cool, freshwater river flowing out to meet the sea.

In two words, it was a “dog’s paradise”.

A Border Collie’s Paradise

Though we spent our time catering to Queen Winnie, Conan Beach is also a very popular snorkeling spot. It’s calm, shallow waters are clear, blue and generally without waves.

If you’re lucky, you may even spot a dolphin or two enjoying the same waters.

I made the joke that Donald Trump would hate this beach. There are numerous wind turbines slowly churning in the distance.


A bit off the beaten path, Conan Beach is not the place to see and be seen. It is just a great spot, with or without a dog, to get away from the crowds and play in the calm, Jeju seas.

It also has one heckuva sunset!

Conan Beach Jeju Island was the most dog-friendly beach that we found.
Conan Beach Jeju Island was the most dog-friendly beach that we found.

Fun Fact: Haengwon Beach got the Conan nickname from a popular Korean TV show. The name is not related to the fictional detective Conan, who is also popular in Korea.

~Day 5~

107, Seopjikoji-ro, Seogwipo-si / 서귀포시 성산읍 섭지코지로 107

If you miss your chance to climb to the top of Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, as we did, then Cape Seopjikoji is a great place to view it from afar.

Winnie scopes out Seongsan Ilchulbong from Cape Seopjikoji, Jeju Island.
Winnie scopes out Seongsan Ilchulbong from Cape Seopjikoji, Jeju Island.

On my scale of “meh”-to-“must see”, I’d rate it closer to the “meh” side.

Don’t let that discourage you though. It is a perfectly lovely place with some great coastal views and a stunning side view of Seongsan Ilchulbong. (pictured above)

Perhaps, after experiencing the Sincheon Coastal Ranch walk, I just became tough to please.

Ride a Horse at Cape Seopjikoji

If you don’t want to “pony up” for an expensive Jeju Island horseback adventure, you can ride a horse at Seopjikoji. A short ride is just 5,000 won (about $5).

It only lasts about 10 minutes, and you’re just walked around a scenic loop. However, it’s definitely worth 5 bucks to cross that off your bucket list.

This Colorado native just took care of the dog, but Lucy enjoyed the ride!

Short and sweet, you can catch the Cape Seopjikoji views by horseback for about 10 minutes ($5).
Short and sweet, you can catch the Cape Seopjikoji views by horseback for about 10 minutes ($5).

Aside from the views and a quick jaunt on horseback, there’s also a strange, dilapidated “candy house”.

Apparently it has been used in a few Korean dramas and movies over the years. I read it was also converted into a museum and coffee shop at some point.

However, it seemed largely abandoned, and somewhat creepy, at the time of our visit.

There is also an interesting Glass House building located at the tip of the cape. It has panoramic views of the sea and Seongsan Ilchulbong. We were short on time, but inside you can find a cafe, restaurant and art galleries.

Admission is free, and there’s free parking at the entrance. There in not a bus stop nearby, so without a car, you will need to take a taxi.

Be advised: this is a popular stop for tour busses. You might find yourself in a throng of tourists if you hit the timing wrong.

2486 Beonyeong-ro, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si / 번영로2486

There is no shortage of amazing cafés on Jeju Island, and I’m really not the one to review them all.

Batti Café is included on this itinerary, however, because it falls somewhere between quaint café and dog-friendly dude ranch.

Located in the Seogwipo part of the island, Batti Café is the home base of activities. It has a sprawling landscape of gardens, walking trails and children’s amusement facilities.

For children, there are mini horses to pet and ride (under supervision). There is even a go-cart track with cart and e-bike rentals.

The café also sells ice cream and the Ice Cream Latté is a hit for adults on a hot day.

Instagram: Batti Café

Horseback Tours

There are adult horseback tours where a guide will lead you up into a vast, picturesque paddock. He goes by foot and leads your horse.

It costs 70,000 won ($52) for two people to be lead high up on the hill. The cost is roughly $10/person to just be lead around the lower ranch area. The views from above are worth the higher price though!

It’s also fine to just walk up the hill on foot for free. There’s a cute swing with amazing views to take some pictures.

Atop a hill, above the Batti Cafe grounds is a nice swing for a photo.

Dogs are welcome in the café and on the grounds. As with all places, they should be kept on a leash. Also, keep in mind that horses and dogs don’t mix, so keep your distance.

However, if you find yourself at the top of the upper paddock with no onlookers, it’s Heaven for a pooch!

There's a beautiful paddock behind Batti Cafe where they lead horse tours. It's also a great place for a border collie!
There’s a beautiful paddock behind Batti Cafe where they lead horse tours. It’s also a great place for a border collie!

Tours

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Before embarking on your trip, please visit the Colorado Saram Store to complete your Jeju Island trip wardrobe.

Finding cool Jeju Island t-shirts wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be on the island. So I made some of my own!

Pink t-shirt featuring "Hallasan" printed above an illustration of a volcanic mountain and clouds. The words "Jeju Island, South Korea" are printed below the illustration.
Jeju Island, South Korea, 3/4 Sleeve Shirt - English and Hangul text
Jeju Island 'Couples' Unisex T-Shirt

Dog Friendly Restaurants

All of the restaurants listed are either dog-friendly or dog-friendly(ish).

They each welcomed us in with our border collie Winnie. On mainland Korea, Winnie is considered a “big dog”. We found Jeju to be much more tolerant of her “size”.

Whether you have a big, small or no dog-at-all, these are some great spots to check out.

5-1 Woljeong-ri, Gujwa-eup,Jeju-si, Jeju-do

11am-10pm Instagram

Dining on“heuk-dwae-ji”, the famous local black pig meat, is probably a non-negotiable if you ever plan to tell someone you visited Jeju Island.

Jeju is famous for raising a breed of black-haired pigs that have a reputation for being the most delicious in all-the-land.

I’ve eaten at many Korean BBQ joints in my time, and I must admit, there were no lies detected in this legend.

Though black pig BBQ restaurants are ubiquitous on the island, we chose the popular Aneuk Jeju for it’s reputation and location on the main boardwalk of Woljeongri Beach.

When there’s a wait outside, you know it’s going to be good!

  • Not cheap, but not over-priced.
  • A staff member cooks the meat at your table (preventing you from screwing it up – guilty!)
  • Maybe not 100% dog-friendly, but they discretely allowed us to bring our border collie inside.
  • Woljeongri was my favorite beach from an “if I squint, this has a “Hawaiian vibe” perspective.

402 Haemajihaean-ro, Gujwa-eup

11am-6pm Instagram

The friendly owner has three border collies of her own, making this a very dog-friendly and delicious stop. It’s located just around the corner from Woljeongri Beach.

Udo Peanut and Jeju Mandarin Ice Cream are specialties. They even have a special ice cream treat for dogs made from coconut milk (멍스크림).

Edre Ice Cream is a popular dog friendly hang out near Woljeongri Beach.

87-16 Aewol-ro, Aewol-eup

10am-3pm

Simba Curry is a delicious lunch spot near Aewol Café Street.

A short drive from the main Aewol tourist centre, Simba Curry has delicious Japanese-style pork cutlet (tonkatsu) and curry dishes.

The menu features different combinations of pork cutlets and/or curry dishes. All are reasonably priced at around $10 per dish.

It’s also dog friendly and has a decent coffee and drink menu.

Seogwipo-si, Namwon-eup, Namtaehaean-ro 13

10am-11:55pm Instagram

If you’re craving that “cheeseburger in paradise”, The Dull Ice Flower has you covered.

A true Western-style pub, the menu also includes pizza and other delicious pub fare. They also have several craft beers on tap and make their own specialty cocktails.

It is also completely dog-friendly.

I didn’t have the chance to chat to the owner, but I did peruse the restaurant’s Instagram. He and his wife clearly embody the spirt of Colorado Saram.

Gujwa-eup, Gujwahaean-ro, 222

10:30am-8pm

Located adjacent to the Kim Nyeong Port, on the north side of the island (near Woljeongri Beach). Kim Nyeong Mi Hang just has one thing on the menu:

Sashimi dishes featuring a popular Korean flat-fish (광어), which translates as halibut.

You can order a large plate of sashimi pieces or have it added to a soup or bimbimbap. We opted for the soup and bibimpap (pictured).

You can tell it’s fresh when you step outside to use the restroom and discover a seawater-filled holding pen leading into the kitchen!

A popular Korean flat fish (광어) is the specialty at Kim Nyeong Mi Hang restaurant in Jeju.

1398 Songdang-ri, Gujwa-eup

11am-4pm Weekdays, 11am-6pm Weekends Instagram

Aliolle is a quaint Italian bistro in the quiet Songdang neighborhood of Jeju Island.

We spent two nights at a lovely AirBnB in the Songdang neighborhood of Jeju. Songdang is inland, mountainous and not overly developed.

Nearby attractions mentioned in this itinerary are Snoopy Garden and the Secret Forest.

Though relatively secluded, there is an up-and-coming vibe to the area that seems to be attracting a hip, new restaurant scene.

One such restaurant is Aliolle, a quaint Italian/French bistro that specializes in pasta, salads and sandwiches.

The restaurant was so close to our AirBnb that we just ordered take-out after a busy morning exploring the Secret Forest. However, the interior was lovely, and they assured us that Winnie would be welcomed back if we chose to dine in.

We ordered the Jambon Cream Pasta and a Jambon Sandwich, both of which were delicious!

2136 Bijarim-ro, Gujwa-eup

11am-3pm (Closed Wednesday/Thursday) Instagram

Our knowledgeable AirBnB host recommended this pizza joint to us, not far from our Songdang accommodation.

Another newly-opened restaurant in the area, Doughboy is Canadian owned and operated, bringing Western expertise to wood fire pizzas.

Those Canadians certainly make a good pie. Though there was a bit of a “we’re new, we’re popular and we know it” attitude to the place that was slightly off-putting.

I might just be picking nits on what was a decent, dog-friendly pizza place.

Canadian-owned Doughboy specializes in wood fired pizzas, cooked in an open kitchen.

The food was good and the take-out made for a nice snack on the ferry ride home!

Heads up: there is an order requirement of either 2 pizzas or 1 pizza and 1 small plate.

(see previous comments).

The menu at Doughboy Pizza, Jeju Island.

57 Sinyang-ro 122beon-gil, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si

8:30am-9pm(7pm on Sunday) 010-2208-3333

We discovered this seaside café partially out of desperation, but were happy to find it.

Hawaiian Beach Cafe is in a quiet neighborhood overlooking Seopjikoji Beach.

The Songdang neighborhood definitely feels up-and-coming. Yet, that still leaves few dining options when you check into your AirBnB on the late side of the evening.

Heads Up: Jeju Island is pretty sleepy, and most restaurants close around or before 9pm.

The menu at the Hawaiian Beach Café is super simple. Think toaster over pizza and chicken fried rice (we ordered both). However, the ambience makes up for any deficiencies in the kitchen.

Overlooking the sea, it’s an airy, 2nd floor restaurant with balcony. It was the perfect spot to quench our hunger and take in our first Jeju Island sunset.

Unchecked Boxes: What I Missed on Jeju Island

Sometimes you can’t accomplish everything you want to see and do in just one trip. These are a few items that will definitely highlight my next visit.

Running a blog called Colorado Saram, I consider it a pretty big “fail” that I didn’t climb Mount Hallasan on this trip.

It is South Korea’s tallest peak and a must-add to most itineraries. However, dogs and not allowed in Korean National Parks and we also arrived during peak summer heat.

Climbing Mount Hallasan remains on my bucket list for a fall or winter return visit.

Update: We returned to Jeju Island in 2024, and I climbed Mount Hallasan. I was thrilled to have completed it, but I never want to do it again. Simply put, my knees didn’t fare well on the way down.

If you haven’t spent 40 years skiing with reckless abandon like yours truly, you’ll probably be just fine!

I’ll share all the details of the experience in the near future.

Traveler at the summit of Mount Hallasan, giving a thumbs up by the summit sign, celebrating the achievement in Jeju Island, South Korea.
All Smiles at the Summit of Hallasan

Udo Island, often referred to as “Cow Island” due to its unique shape resembling a reclining cow, is a picturesque destination located off the eastern coast of Jeju Island.

It is a popular day trip, highlighted by a ferry ride to sandy beaches, hikes on Udo Peak and exploring the natural and cultural heritage of the island.

Catch you next time Udo!

I’m not really a museum person, per se, but Jeju Island is home to an eclectic mix of museums.

A few that sound worth checking out include:

  • Jeju National Museum: This museum offers a comprehensive overview of Jeju’s history, culture, and natural heritage, featuring artifacts, exhibitions, and multimedia displays.
  • Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum: Explore the island’s folklore, traditional crafts, and natural history, including its unique wildlife and geological features.
  • Trick Art Museum: This interactive museum showcases optical illusions and 3D art, allowing visitors to become a part of the artwork and take memorable photos.
  • Lee Joong-Seop Gallery: Dedicated to the works of Lee Joong-Seop, a famous Korean artist, this museum displays his paintings and sculptures.
  • Jeju Glass Castle: A captivating museum that features glass art and sculptures in a garden setting, offering visitors the chance to enjoy the interplay of glass and natural beauty.
  • Hello Kitty Island: A must-visit for Hello Kitty fans, this museum is a fun and cute experience featuring a wide range of Hello Kitty-themed exhibits and merchandise.
  • Osulloc Tea Museum: Learn about Jeju’s tea culture and history, and enjoy tea tastings and beautiful tea fields.
  • Teddy Bear Museum: An entertaining museum featuring an extensive collection of teddy bears from different countries and historical periods.
  • Jeju Aerospace Museum: Explore the history of aviation and space exploration, including interactive displays and actual aircraft.
  • Green Tea Museum: Discover the world of green tea on Jeju Island, from cultivation to brewing, and sample various tea products.
  • Jeju Haenyeo Museum: Learn about the haenyeo (female divers) of Jeju, their traditional way of life, and the island’s maritime history.
  • Museum of Sex and Health: This unique museum provides information on sexual health and wellness, as well as sexual education in a tasteful and informative manner.

Questions?

If you have questions, please join my free Facebook group and community. I’m happy to answer you there!

Travel Resources

Everything reviewed on this trip is 100% unbiased opinion.

However, you can support this blog through the use of the following affiliate partners, at no additional cost to you.

Flights to Jeju

Car Rentals on Jeju

Hotels

When booking accommodations in Asia, I often compare Agoda and Booking.com. While they typically list the same properties, they have distinct sets of reviews and sometimes different prices.

Both platforms usually provide free cancellation (though not for every listing), so I like to book one with free cancellation as a placeholder while continuing my search.

eSIM Cards

I’ve detailed how to connect your phone to an Airalo eSIM card in Vietnam, and it works just as effectively in South Korea.

Colorado Saram and dog (Winnie) at Conan Beach, Jeju Island - South Korea.

John Buckley

I grew up in the renowned ski resort town of Vail, Colorado, but I’ve lived in South Korea for over 15 years, working as an English teacher.

Colorado Saram means "Colorado person" in Korean.

For more than 20 years, I’ve traveled the world, maintaining my Colorado lifestyle while pursuing my passion for international travel in Asia and beyond.

I write about international skiing, hiking, outdoor adventures, dog-friendly travel, travel gear, and more.

Read more about the journey that led to the creation of Colorado Saram and how I aim to help you bring the spirit of Colorado adventure to your international travels!

Join my free Facebook group for questions about outdoor travel in Asia and Oceania or to join in the conversation!