Why Climbing Hallasan in Summer Nearly Broke Me (And What I’d Do Differently)

If you’re considering hiking Hallasan in South Korea, this guide breaks down what worked, what didn’t, and how I’d approach it differently next time.

Hiking Hallasan, South Korea’s tallest peak, is absolutely worth doing. But if I could go back and do it again, I’d change a few key things.

I tackled the Seongpanak up / Gwaneumsa down route solo in August, thinking my Colorado-born legs and years of trekking experience (Nepal, Southeast Asia, South America) had me covered — they didn’t.

Between the brutal humidity, a late start, and the punishing descent on aging knees, Hallasan gave me a humbling reminder that preparation matters — even on a “moderate” day hike.

I’ll share exactly what the climb was like, why the descent nearly broke me, and what I’d do differently if I ever hiked Hallasan again. You’ll get tips on permits, trail choices, packing, seasonal timing, and how to avoid the mistakes I made.

Whether you’re a regular hiker or tackling your first big one, my goal is to help you summit smart — and descend with your knees still intact.

If that intro didn’t exactly inspire you to lace up your boots and fly straight to Jeju Island — hang tight. My outlook gets rosier from here.

But first, some honesty: Hallasan humbled me.

This quick clip my wife took right after I finished the hike pretty much sums it up. It was around 8 p.m., I’d been on trail for 10 hours, covered over 11.4 miles (18.4 km), and logged more than 37,000 steps, according to my iPhone.

When she asked how it went, this was my defeated response:

🎥 Watch: My Hallasan Reaction Right After the Hike

Not exactly a ringing endorsement. But to be fair, most of the hike was fantastic. I was smiling for much of the day — albeit drenched in sweat the entire way. Hopefully this helps you prepare a little better than I did, so your final words aren’t a desperate plea for hydration.

So how did I end up in that state?

I grew up in Vail, Colorado — elevation 8,250 feet — and was hiking the Rockies before I could spell my own name. I’ve trekked the Kalalau Trail in Hawaii, the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, the W Trek in Patagonia, and stood on top of Mount Kinabalu in Borneo.

I didn’t go into Hallasan cocky, but I definitely didn’t expect to limp into the parking lot at the end feeling like I’d been chewed up and spit out by the island volcano itself.

Unfortunately, Father Time comes for us all.

After four decades of mountain sports and hard skiing, my knees have entered what you might call their “golden years.” They’re still fine on the way up — but once the descent started, I felt the first pangs of protest, which eventually turned into a full-fledged boycott by the time I reached the car at Gwaneumsa.

This is a relatively new development, and one I’ve learned to manage with some cheap neoprene braces and a little Gen X grit.

Turns out, grit sounds better in retrospect, but in real time, Hallasan just made me suffer.

The Gwaneumsa descent, over five miles of slick volcanic rock and endless stairs, was where my knees finally hit their limit. Combine that with 90+ degree heat, sweltering humidity (kryptonite for the Colorado-born), and a start time later than the smart bloggers recommended, and Hallasan wasn’t quite the casual day-hike I thought I was signing up for.

I’m not here to bum you out if you’re reading this in excited anticipation of your big trip to Jeju Island. Quite the contrary. Think of what follows as a few cautionary tales that may or may not apply to you — from one old guy who should’ve known better than to commit his knees to the task without trekking poles or a water bottle filled from the fountain of youth.

If you’re in your 20s, in solid shape, or just genuinely a fan of Stairmaster workouts, you’ll probably cruise through this. But if you’re anything like me — over 40, carrying some wear and tear, and more at home on a freezing ski slope than a subtropical volcano — don’t underestimate this trail. It’s a beautiful, rewarding climb, but one that can absolutely punish poor planning.

I stand by what I said in the video. I am glad I did it. But if I got a do-over? I’d do a lot of things differently. And that’s what the rest of this post is all about.

Before the hike, I chose the classic combo: up Seongpanak, down Gwaneumsa. It’s the most popular full traverse of Hallasan, and I figured it would give me the “complete” experience. Two trails, one summit, one big check off the Korea adventure list.

And to be fair, that logic wasn’t wrong. I got to experience both sides of the mountain — and sitting here now in my writing chair, I’m glad I did.

But here’s my honest take: knowing what I know now, if I had just gone up Seongpanak and come back down the same way, I don’t think I would’ve missed much in terms of scenery. And I probably would’ve arrived back at the trailhead in a far better state of mind (and body) than you saw in that video clip above.

So unless you’re in pretty solid shape and confident your knees and ankles can take a beating, you may want to rethink the full traverse — or at least reverse it.

Let’s break it down from both angles.

Seongpanak was fine. Long, but very manageable. A steady, gradual climb through forest, with a few sections of staircase but nothing brutal.

Most of the path is well maintained, and a good chunk of it is covered with that rope-mat material you’ll see on a lot of Korean trails — soft on the feet and great for reducing impact. You’re in tree cover for a good while too, so it stays shaded. It may not win any scenic awards in the first half, but it’s a forgiving trail.

With cooler temps and less humidity, I might’ve even called it an enjoyable day hike up a big, beautiful mountain. There are a few steeper sections, some with volcanic stones I’ll be complaining about in the next section, but nothing most hikers can’t handle.

▶️ Watch: Starting the Hallasan hike on Seongpanak — shaded forest, soft footing, and cautious optimism.

Once you clear the tree line, the final push to the summit is steeper, with a series of well-maintained wooden staircases and a few spots where ropes are anchored into the rocks. It’s more hands-on than the lower section, but totally doable. Kids and hikers older than me (yes, they exist) were handling it just fine.

Summit cutoff note: You can only continue to the peak if you pass the Jindallaebat Shelter checkpoint by a certain time (usually around 12:30 p.m., but this can vary slightly by season). Rangers enforce it to prevent people from getting caught in dangerous weather, darkness, or fog on the descent.

At the time, it felt overly cautious. But after spending time up top with clouds rolling in, and then getting caught in the descent saga that follows, I now fully understand why that cutoff exists.

And now, the descent…

We’ve already established that I arrived at the Gwaneumsa trailhead parking lot with storm clouds brewing and darkness setting in — a somewhat broken man.

Some of that can probably be chalked up to a perfect storm of personal limitations and planning miscalculations. But there are also real trail-specific concerns that are worth factoring into your route choice.

Let’s start with the positives. Compared to Seongpanak, the views are more impressive and more sustained on the Gwaneumsa side. It feels more like a steep mountain valley than a shaded forest hike. Not exactly a life-changing difference, but definitely the more scenic option.

And credit where credit is due — the wooden staircases built into the Gwaneumsa side are impressive. The park service somehow managed to construct and maintain a full network of steps stretching all the way to the summit.

At first, I was genuinely impressed. But eventually, the novelty wore off and those stairs just kept coming. Somewhere around the hundredth step, my knees began to protest. After that, every further step down hurt more than the last.

It feels strange to complain about how well-built those trail stairs are, but after a while, I would’ve given anything for a good old-fashioned dirt switchback to let me move at my usual hiking pace.

And when the stairs finally ended? Things didn’t exactly get better.

The lower section of Gwaneumsa turns into a rugged, rocky trail made up of slick black volcanic stone. Even in high-quality hiking boots, I felt every step. The pounding wore me down, and I had to stop a few times just to take off my boots and let my feet breathe — not because of blisters, but from sheer pounding.

As I got closer to the bottom, light rain started to fall. Combined with fading daylight, it made the rocks even more treacherous. I slowed to a crawl, more concerned with staying upright than finishing fast.

And to be clear, it wasn’t just me. I passed several younger hikers — people in their 20s — who were also struggling on the descent. Some were stretching, limping, or sitting down to rest. One Korean kid who spoke great English hiked with me for a bit and was doing fine, but his mom was clearly in pain and moving slowly.

I also saw a father carrying his young daughter after she gave out completely. I’m pretty sure they needed help from the park patrol to get down safely.

That’s when it hit me: maybe this wasn’t just an age thing. It’s the trail. And with darkness creeping in, a real sense of desperation kicked in for all of us. I made it out before full nightfall, but just barely — and only because I’d hit the summit cut-off time by a slim margin.

So, what route would I actually recommend?

If I had to do it again, I’d go up and down Seongpanak. You’re not missing anything essential, and you’ll save your knees, your feet, and your emotional well-being from taking an unnecessary beating. You’ll also avoid the hassle of needing a shuttle — unless you’ve got someone (like my wife) who’s willing to drop you off and pick you up at opposite ends.

Some hikers recommend the reverse — up Gwaneumsa and down Seongpanak. That probably would’ve suited my body better, since climbing stairs doesn’t bother me as much as descending them. But still, I wouldn’t call either direction on Gwaneumsa “fun.” It’s a challenge, either way.

For most people, especially anyone over 35 or carrying a bit of joint wear-and-tear, Seongpanak up and down is the smarter call. You still summit. You still get the views. And you’ll probably enjoy the hike more, or at least hate it less on the way down.

And let’s not forget the real villain of this whole story: the heat and humidity. Even on the descent, I was still sweating through every piece of fabric I’d packed in anticipation of the issue.

Once the afternoon showers rolled in, the humidity got even worse. It soaked my body and spirit, wearing me down one soggy step at a time.

If I’d picked a better season to hike Hallasan, I’m pretty sure I’d be telling a different story.

Which brings me to. . .

Even though I’m not exactly racing to hike Hallasan again, if I did, there are a few things I’d change — and if you’re planning your own climb, you might want to learn from my missteps before lacing up.

1. I’d Start Earlier

Early morning starts aren’t exactly my strong suit, and my wife is even tougher to get moving. Don’t get me wrong — I’m usually up early — but I like to luxuriate over a cup of coffee or three before heading out. I figured I was in good enough shape to start later than recommended and still finish with time to spare.

The suggested window for starting Hallasan is between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. and I didn’t hit the trail until 9.

Technically, I made all the checkpoint cutoffs. But by the time I limped into the Gwaneumsa parking lot, it was dark and raining. That last hour was a slow, slippery crawl over volcanic rock, with fading light and zero margin for error. As I mentioned above, you’re racing both the clock and the weather — and it’s better not to test either.

2. I’d Hike With a Partner (If I Could)

My wife isn’t much of a hiker, and dogs aren’t allowed on Hallasan anyway, so while she and our border collie were off living their best life on Jeju, I took on Korea’s highest mountain solo. And honestly, I usually prefer it that way. I like the solitude, the space to think, and the chance to catch up on my favorite podcasts.

But when the sun started dipping behind the trees, the rain crept in, and I still had a mile to go on wobbly knees… yeah, I wouldn’t have minded a hiking buddy. Someone to share the misery with, crack a joke, or at least help me laugh through the pain.

3. I’d Avoid Summer Altogether

Let me preface this by saying I’m a major heat-wuss — the way some people can’t handle the cold.

If you’re one of those Koreans who can hike in trekking pants, gloves, and a windbreaker in the middle of August, feel free to skip ahead. But if you’re anything like me, don’t hike Hallasan in summer. Honestly, I’d rule out June through early September altogether. Korea’s heat and humidity are no joke, and being on a volcanic island doesn’t buy you much relief.

My shirts and towel were drenched within the first hour and stayed soaked all day. Even up on the ridgeline, I never felt cool. I’d packed two shirts and a towel and still felt like a walking swamp creature for most of the hike. If I had to do it again in August (which I wouldn’t), I’d bring extra dry clothes and some sort of cooling gear to rotate throughout the day.

📌 Best times to hike Hallasan?
Late October through early December is ideal — fall colors, cool temps, and clearer skies. April through early May also works, before the summer humidity ramps up.

4. I’d Bring Better Food

In true last-minute fashion, I stocked up on Korean convenience food the night before at a local Emart: packaged sausages, Doritos, some cookies, and a Snickers bar or two. Not a bad meal if you’re back in Colorado partaking in the devil’s lettuce — but as fuel for a 10-hour slog, I had some regrets.

About halfway down, I was burping up sausage-flavored Dorito dust and seriously wishing I’d packed something more substantial.

Real food. Something with protein, carbs, and yeah, a bit of sugar — but ideally, snacks that don’t keep reminding you what you ate hours later. I had enough food, technically — it just happened to be mostly junk.

Lesson learned.

📌 Korean Trekker’s Tip:
A better option? Grab a big tuna gimbap (참치김밥) or an egg salad sandwich from the convenience store fridge section — they’re easy to pack, surprisingly filling, and way more stomach-friendly on the trail. Toss in a boiled egg, some fruit or nuts, and sure, add a Snickers bar or two. Just don’t make them your primary sustenance like I did.

5. I’d Pack More Water

I carried three one-liter bottles and figured I was being overly cautious. And yes, that’s as heavy as it sounds. But by the final stretch, I was rationing the last few sips like Tom Hanks in Castaway — and still had over an hour to go.

In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have treated myself to those early, luxurious face showers, assuming I had water to spare or that I’d run into refill spots along the way. Whoops. Rookie mistake. I passed exactly one usable source all day — a natural spring where I soaked my towel again but didn’t trust the water enough to drink it.

At one point, I even gave a good portion of one bottle to a guy who had brought only a single bicycle-sized bottle. I never saw him again after that, but I really hope he turned back. We were only a few hours in.

If you’re hiking Hallasan, especially in summer: bring more water than you think you need. Then bring a little more. (And maybe a tiny filter straw just in case.)

6. I’d Use Trekking Poles

I’ve never used trekking poles in my life. I always figured they were either for people with balance issues or folks with money burning a hole in their “look-cool-on-the-trail” budget.

But after I posted my Hallasan summit photo on Facebook and got into some friendly banter with a few Vail friends (who weren’t exactly impressed by the elevation), I tried to defend the accomplishment.

I told them the distance, the heat, and the brutal staircase descent made it one of the most painful hikes I’ve done — Colorado 14ers included.

That’s when one of my old ski buddies chimed in: “Sorry man, at this age you’ve gotta get some trekking poles. Your knees aren’t magically getting any younger!”

He wasn’t wrong. I looked into it — and also into whether knee pain improves with age. Turns out, it doesn’t. So yeah, I’m officially on Team Trekking Poles now.

7. I’d Have a Backup Plan for My Phone Battery

By the time I hit the Gwaneumsa descent, I realized my phone battery might not make it to the bottom — which would’ve been a real problem, considering my wife and I had only a vague plan for where and when to meet.

Between using the AllTrails app (which I do recommend), filming long monologues, snapping photos, and listening to podcasts, my aging iPhone battery was dwindling like the cartilage in my knees. I got lucky and found an outlet at a checkpoint a couple of hours from the end. If I hadn’t, I would’ve had to shut everything down just to preserve enough juice for a pickup call.

I should’ve brought a battery pack. Plain and simple. If my phone had died, it might’ve gone from annoying to dangerous, fast.

8. I’d Skip the Ego Route

I’ve already made my case for this, but just to reiterate: unless you’re training for the Stairmaster Olympics, I wouldn’t recommend the full Seongpanak up / Gwaneumsa down combo.

The Seongpanak trail is softer, friendlier, and far more forgiving. Gwaneumsa is steeper, rockier, and frankly, the added “value” didn’t feel worth it in the end. Maybe it was just the conditions on my particular day, but Gwaneumsa also felt noticeably less traveled — which means if something does go wrong, it might be a while before anyone finds you.

So yeah. If I had a do-over, I’d check my ego and stick to Seongpanak both ways. You still summit Korea’s tallest peak — and you just might make it back to the trailhead without begging for mercy.

If you’re planning to summit Hallasan — South Korea’s highest peak — there are a few non-negotiables: permits, timing, and transport. The hiking itself is straightforward and well-marked, but these logistics can trip you up fast. Here’s how to secure your permit, choose the right trail, and time your hike to avoid last-minute panic.

You must reserve a permit to summit Hallasan — even solo.

Both Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa require permits for the full summit hike. No walk-ins, especially during peak seasons like October or early May.

Visit: https://visithalla.jeju.go.kr/main/main.do
(Toggle to English in the top-right menu.)

• Choose your trailhead (Seongpanak or Gwaneumsa)
• Select your date, group size, and time slot
• Verify ID via email or Kakao login
• Save or print your QR confirmation

Tip: I carried both printed and digital copies — rangers only scanned my QR code once at the entrance, but it’s good to have a paper copy on you should anything go wrong.

Trail access is managed via checkpoint deadlines to keep hikers safe from darkness and sudden weather.

Approximate cutoffs (may vary slightly by season):

• 🕦 Seongpanak ascent: Reach Jindallaebat Shelter by ~12:30 p.m.
• 🕛 Gwaneumsa ascent: Reach Samgakbong Shelter by ~12:00 p.m.

If you’re ascending via either trail, missing that cutoff means you must turn around — no exceptions.

Descending a trail doesn’t require checkpoint timing — but do not be caught on trail after dark. I already mentioned that the last hour of my hike felt like a race against an invisible clock.

You’ve already heard my detailed take, but here’s the nutshell version:

• 9.6 km (6 miles) one-way
• Gradual ascent, well-maintained, shaded forest trail
• Summit access with permit
• Best option for most hikers

• 8.7 km (5.4 miles) one-way
• Steep, scenic, tougher terrain with lots of stairs and volcanic rock
• No summit access unless descending after a Seongpanak ascent
• Harder on the knees and less traffic near the bottom

Navigation note: The trails are well-marked, with regular signage and ranger posts. As long as you stay on trail and don’t try to shortcut, getting lost is very unlikely — even without speaking Korean.

Jeju is big. The two main trailheads for Hallasan — Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa — are about 45 minutes apart by road. While it’s possible to reach them by public bus or taxi, you’ll have a much smoother experience with your own wheels.

For full flexibility, comfort, and ability to explore the rest of Jeju afterward, I highly recommend renting a car. I’ll go deeper into that in the travel logistics section, but for now, just know:

• Both trailheads have parking
• Dogs aren’t allowed on trail, so say goodbye to your pup in the lot
• Rental cars in Korea often allow pets (crate may be required)
• For point-to-point hikes, you’ll need a shuttle — my wife handled drop-off & pickup (and yes, the PA scolded us about the dog kissing me goodbye in the parking lot)

📌 Search Jeju rental car deals on DiscoverCars

If you don’t have a rental, you can reach both trailheads via city buses, but it’s not quick — or forgiving, especially post-hike. I can’t stress strongly enough how much higher my misery index would have been if I also knew I had to wait for and take a city bus at the end of the trail. The driver would’ve been peeling me off of the seats to get me off at my stop.

To Seongpanak Trailhead:

• Bus 181 (from Jeju City hall or airport)
• Get off at Seongpanak Entrance (성판악입구)
• Runs every 20–30 minutes, takes ~40 minutes
• ₩1,900–3,000

To Gwaneumsa Trailhead:

• Bus 475 from Jeju National University
• Get off at Gwaneumsa Entrance (관음사입구)
• You’ll walk ~1.5 km uphill from the bus stop to trailhead
• Runs every 60–90 minutes

🔁 Return trip tip: If you’re descending to a different trailhead than you started at, the bus transfer can be a long, slow process. Not ideal if your legs are toast.

🟡 Important: Buses start early but don’t run very late. If you’re finishing your descent around sunset, you’ll be racing daylight — and may be stranded if you miss the last bus. Have a backup taxi app (like KakaoTaxi) just in case.

Perfect for solo hikers or travelers without a car:

• Choose a one-way or round-trip shuttle to Seongpanak or Gwaneumsa
• Makes back-and-forth logistics easy, especially if you’re doing the full traverse
• Book in advance to secure your pickup time

👉 Reserve a Hallasan shuttle transfer on Viator here

If hiking to the summit isn’t on your Jeju bucket list, there are still plenty of lower-effort ways to experience the beauty of Hallasan and the surrounding island:

• Hallasan National Park has shorter, more accessible trails (like the Eoseungsaengak Trail) that offer great views without a permit.
• Scenic viewpoints and coastal drives can give you dramatic glimpses of the mountain without committing to a full-day trek.

👉 Book the Jeju Southern Euphoria Tour via Klook here

These kinds of tours are ideal for families, off-season travelers, or anyone wanting to experience Jeju’s nature without the elevation gain.

• Begin between 5–8 a.m. — arriving later adds risk of missing cut-offs
• Bring permit, ID, printed + digital QR
• Pack extras: water, snacks, layers, phone power, personal first aid
• Don’t push cut-offs — conditions change fast at altitude
• Have phone fully charged and a power bank on hand

Hallasan is a well-maintained trail — but don’t let that fool you. Summer heat, humidity, and relentless elevation gain make it a physical challenge that rewards smart preparation. There are no places to buy food or water on the trail itself (aside from one spring), and you won’t find an emergency convenience store at the summit. What you bring is what you have.

Here’s what I recommend based on my own sweaty experience:

• 🥤 Minimum 3L of water
• 🦯 Trekking poles
• 💧 Electrolytes or sports drinks
• 🥾 High-grip hiking shoes (with good tread)
• 👕 Extra t-shirt, socks, and towel
• 🧢 Hat + sweat rag combo (bucket hat + small towel works great)
• 🍙 Snacks and lunch (nothing sold on the trail)
• 📄 Permit confirmation (QR code or printed copy)
• 🗺️ Offline map app (Google Maps, AllTrails, etc.)
• 🔋 Small battery pack (or charging cable for shelter stops)
• 🩹 Basic first aid kit and blister tape
• 📷 Phone, camera, or GoPro (fully charged)
• 🎥 Mini tripod or selfie stick for trail videos
• 🧼 Hand wipes or sanitizer
• 🧴 Sunscreen and bug spray
• 🧊 Cooling towel or neck wrap (for summer hikers)

📌 Bonus tip: If you’re hiking in fall or spring, add a light windbreaker or fleece. Conditions change quickly near the summit.

If you’re planning to hike Hallasan, chances are you’re also mapping out a broader Jeju Island trip. This section pulls together everything you’ll need: where to stay, how to get around, how to stay connected, and a few extra tools to make your time on Jeju smoother — and more enjoyable.

Climbing Hallasan was actually our second visit to Jeju — a pretty condensed three-day trip where the hike was the main focus.

Everything below is based on what I’ve personally used or researched thoroughly. A few links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book through them, at no extra cost to you. It’s one way to support this blog and help keep content like this coming.

If you’re looking for a deeper dive into where to go and what to do across the island, check out my full Dog-Friendly Jeju Road Trip Itinerary for beaches, cafes, and trails you won’t find on TikTok (unless you follow me, of course).

There are really two ways to get to Jeju Island: the easy way, and the fun way.

Most visitors fly into Jeju International Airport (CJU). It’s fast, efficient, and there are daily flights from most major Korean cities — plus a few international routes across Asia. For this Hallasan trip, we flew direct from Daegu and picked up our rental car at the airport. Winnie (our border collie) came along too, though she didn’t enjoy the plane ride quite as much as we did.

That said, if you’re traveling with pets, want to bring your own car, or just prefer a slower pace, the ferry is a solid alternative — especially from ports like Mokpo, Busan, or Wando.

On our first trip to Jeju, we packed up the dog, loaded the car, and took the ferry from Wando Port. We had plenty of time, and it ended up being one of the more memorable parts of the trip.

👉 Book Jeju ferry tickets in English via Klook

Want the full breakdown? I wrote a detailed Jeju Island Ferry Travel Guide with everything you need to know — from routes and reservation tips to what to expect onboard.

As I mentioned, if you really want to get the most out of Jeju, renting a car is the way to go. Public transport works in a pinch — but if you want to chase waterfalls, explore hidden beaches, or hit a sunrise trailhead without syncing your day to a bus schedule, having your own wheels is essential.

We booked through DiscoverCars, and I’d use them again. It’s one of the few sites that actually shows full pricing up front, with no surprise fees at pickup.

We even blew a tire on a rural backroad, and the rental company drove out a replacement car — no questions asked. (Life lesson: always take the insurance.) To be fair, my wife was driving, and I might have given those narrow Jeju road shoulders a slightly wider berth.

But honestly, the flat turned into a weird stroke of luck. It happened directly in front of a shuttered dog café — where the owner came out, welcomed us in, made coffee, and let our pup roam around off-leash while we waited.

Long story for another time, but if you’re going to get stranded, this was about as good as it gets.

Also, don’t forget: you’ll need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to legally drive in Korea. They’re cheap and easy to get — but much easier to sort out from your home country before the trip. If you’re not sure where to start, here’s my full guide to driving in South Korea as a foreigner.

Note: The search defaults to Jeju, South Korea. When booking, be sure to adjust the country field to match your driver’s license or home country.

For Hallasan access and convenience, Jeju City is your best bet. It’s close to the airport, offers better public transport, and has plenty of food options — including early-morning convenience stores before your hike.

That said, since our border collie is always along for the ride, we tend to stay in quieter areas.

If you’re exploring more of the island or just want a slower vibe, Seogwipo (on the southern coast) makes a great base. It’s near waterfalls, coast trails, and we found a peaceful VRBO in a local neighborhood that was border collie approved.

We’ve also stayed in Songdang, a small village in East Jeju. It’s not for everyone — fewer restaurants and amenities — but if you want quiet, a glimpse of local life, and sunrise coast walks, it’s worth considering. It’s also close to Snoopy Garden and Secret Forest, both featured in my 5-Day Jeju Itinerary.

Depending on your travel style, here are a few trusted platforms to start your Jeju lodging search: Agoda for hotel deals across Korea, Trip.com for all-in-one bookings, and VRBO for peaceful vacation rentals and pet-friendly stays.

Not every day on Jeju needs to be an epic summit or sunrise hike. If you’re looking for something lighter — or just want someone else to handle the logistics for a day — there are plenty of tours worth checking out.

From lava tubes to tea fields to waterfall walks, GetYourGuide has a solid range of easy day tours and small-group experiences across the island.

If you don’t find quite what you’re looking for there, Viator also offers curated options — including airport transfers, cultural tours, and more guided hikes.

Between offline maps, taxi apps, and changing trail conditions, having mobile data on Jeju — especially if you’re hiking Hallasan — is more of a survival tool than a luxury.

Since I live in Korea full-time, I didn’t need a travel SIM for this trip. But I’ve used Airalo eSIMs while traveling through Vietnam and Japan, and it’s what I’d recommend to anyone visiting Jeju from abroad.

Setup is simple, the coverage is solid (including most of Hallasan, aside from a few high ridgelines), and you don’t need to mess with physical SIM cards. Just download the app, follow the steps, and you’re online within minutes.

Want a full walkthrough? I put together a step-by-step Airalo eSIM setup guide based on my two weeks in Vietnam — the process is nearly identical for South Korea.

👉 Grab your South Korea eSIM through Airalo here

Of course, some travelers use data roaming or pocket WiFi devices, but for simplicity, flexibility, and coverage on the trail, an eSIM is hard to beat.

Had I written my final thoughts the day after the hike, I probably would’ve had a different take. But time heals all wounds, and I can now honestly say that I give summiting Hallasan my full-throated endorsement for your South Korea travel bucket list.

Even with the humidity, the descent drama, and my ill-advised snack strategy, there’s something deeply satisfying about standing on the highest peak in South Korea — especially knowing how much I had to gut it out to get there.

That said, I hope you can learn a few things from my mistakes and use them to arrive at the finish line in better condition than this old-timer from Colorado.

Hallasan challenged me in ways that felt different from some of my other big treks and hikes. Not because it was the highest or hardest, but because it caught me off guard. I didn’t expect it to be easy, but I definitely didn’t expect to feel so defeated by the end.

So, would I do it again? Probably not. There’s no chance I’d hike it in August again, and even in the best season, I think I’d skip the Gwaneumsa descent on these old skier’s knees.

But would I recommend it to others? Absolutely. The views from the summit and the sense of accomplishment are well worth the effort — just go in with realistic expectations, and a little more planning than my own “she’ll be alright” attitude.

It’s a hike that earns your respect, whether you summit it once, train on it weekly, or just admire it from afar while sipping iced coffee in Jeju City. However you approach it, Hallasan deserves a place on any outdoor adventurer’s South Korea itinerary.

If Hallasan got you dreaming of more big hikes, here are a few other routes I’ve tackled that might hit your radar:

• 🇻🇳 Sapa, Vietnam — Self-guided trekking through rice terraces, misty ridges, and welcoming hill tribe villages. Read my Sapa Trekking Guide
• 🇳🇵 Nepal — Choosing between the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp? I’ve done both. Here’s a full breakdown to help you decide. Annapurna vs. EBC Comparison
• 🇰🇷 Mainland South Korea — Daegwallyeong in Gangwon-do might be Korea’s most underrated mountain escape. Trekking & Camping in Daegwallyeong

Whether you’re craving culture, challenge, or just a good excuse to lace up the boots again, each of these hikes brought something different to the table.